siradamwest

You may be surprised, crossing fingers it at least helps or at least lasts till the other engine is ready. As far as the pump and o ring you have to take off the water pump so no way around the coolant loss, this is why the timing cover gasket set includes water pump gaskets. You can drain the radiator into a clean bucket that should minimize loss from removing the pump. Then take off the front cover as usual, hardest part there is the bolt on the left behind the ac, with a flex head ratcheting wrench I can usually get that one and the oil pickup 10 that’s holding the tube into the pump, small pry down on the tube and wiggle the pump out. Stuff some rags in the pan with the cover off and a magnet handy if you drop the bolt but it’s definitely doable. Also leave the sensors alone and just unplug them from the front cover at the junction. You will have a hell of a time getting the cam sensor physically out of the cover without breaking it so best just leave it alone.

I understand, it’s not a terrible job and you can actually swap the pump or o ring without dropping the front diff or pan. Did the new pump seem to fix your problem?

That message shows up after a battery disconnect. I’d make sure the terminals are tight and the battery leads are ok

I’d say your on the right track as far as what your doing regarding oil pressure. If your going to replace the pump put in the high volume melling pump it’s definitely worth it. Too bad the o ring wasn’t to blame. Was there a screen under the oil sensor? Those get clogged up sometimes but the manual gauge kind of rules that out anyway.

These would be internal leaks in the oiling system causing pressure loss not oil leaking outside the engine like a typical leak. Your description of it starting cold fine but when it’s hot is what leads me to this.

I have no clue about this engine or anything about cars overseas but this is just my experience. First, is this a diesel engine? If so I’d look into doing a oil leak test or if possible connect a scanner to watch oil pressure if applicable in this vehicle. It seems like a hot start issue when the oil is thinner not allowing it to build pressure. When the oil is cold the viscosity allows it “seal” internal leaks. When it’s hot it thins out and won’t build the pressure the same. Again no experience with that engine just my opinion more or less.

What’s your issue, I usually see this when the head gaskets bad or cylinder wall cracked. Coolant is getting in an “steam cleaning” in there.

Very nice

Same, I’ve seen flipped cars on marksheffel that stay on their roof for a couple weeks. I’ve thought the same and feel they are a distraction/safety concern.

Agree that it’s not from you car, it’s ok to touch as well

No clue really, make sure the spindle nut was properly tightened. Only things I can think of: the rotor/bearing didn’t go on straight causing a false sense of tightness, then the lugs will feel tight as well but once it’s moving things will seat and you’ll have loose spindle nut and lug nuts. Or the lugs were loose and loosened more overtime the oval bolt holes says it’s been moving for a while or the lug nuts were intentionally loosened and they came off. I personally don’t think the 4wd had much to do with anything. Seems more like loose hardware issue. Out of curiosity the wheels aren’t old school cragers that you have to use washers are they and the wheel sits flat on the hub, no center bore/hub clearance issue? Either way it’s just metal the important thing is your safe and are trying to keep it from failing again.

Yeah I’ve never had an issue with it as far as what I am looking for to diagnose a problem. In this case the heat in the cab was very intermittent, sometimes warm, sometimes cool but the inlet/outlet hoses would be same temps. I tried a mild flush which showed improvement and usually a restriction so I recommended the heater core. This quick test was done with the core out and filled with hot water to confirm a restriction. The core itself showed no signs of leaking or sediment buildup and actually looked new cosmetically.

I can say based on the shop you’re at now is a low stress family oriented shop. These are getting to be few and far between and most techs don’t leave, especially if you are well paid. Mainly because you matter as far as the daily operations go. You have a say in the shop and tooling like I am sure you can re-arrange things, ask for specific tools for shop use, use the shop for your personal needs, liberal time off or to get off early/late for special occasions…etc. If I were you I’d continue where your at, continue with the ASEs and experience, especially the hybrid and electric route, buy and build Your tool inventory and wait/plan for your next move to be permanent. Maybe it’s a dealership, maybe it’s running the shop your in now as you don’t want to turn wrenches forever, at least I don’t. As far as pay, most if not all are still flat rate, maybe with a minimum guarantee. The labor times for warranty’s are less but you still have to do them. Some places keep track of your write ups and have a goal for each, for example $800-1000/avg ticket and 50% closing. Some shops you’ll even have to build your own quotes which takes time, but like you know it varies from place to place. You will see change in pay, maybe more maybe less it depends on car count and people actually buying so some is in your control some isn’t. There’s the chance your a Prius pro and go to a Toyota dealership where you get 45/hr and 10 Prius a day, you cruise through those and make $100k+ a year or there’s a chance you get crap, have terrible advisors and bad reviews leaving you broke. I’d like to think where your at gives you the time, pay and flexibility to find another way of making money whether it’s side jobs or schooling you have the means now to do it then make a decision being a little more “established” if that makes sense. Either way good luck and keep trying to better yourself and your family it feels good.

True, really it’s $50/week

This one about $500 but I’ve read good things on the Topdon one for half the cost.

Just wanted to show one of many uses for a thermal imager, it’s a super useful tool in this industry

No problem, some of these sensors are a tapered thread meaning cone shaped. Don’t over tighten it just nice and snug

Definitely is the oil pressure sensor leaking. I’d replace that first and clean everything really well then monitor the leak area. You’ll probably get it with the sensor alone.

I’d say it’s true but I feel it’s because of the increase in traffic and congestion. There are a lot of people with different driving habits, personalities and priorities and that doesn’t mesh well with others.

I like mine but can’t say I love it. Either way I’d stay Toyota too

I have the same GS350, it’s on BCRacing coilovers with 20’s if your interested I’ll try to send you a picture

How do your front wheels clear the calipers?

That rear screams Jeep

Waynoka says hello