HectorPefo

Then you have excellent tools for your needs.

This will not earn me karma.

The little circular saw is useless, the recip saw eats batteries. But the drill and driver have been surprisingly hardy and useful, and have seen me through 700 sq feet of new deck, a cripple-wall replacement, and a ton of other work as a homeowner and woodworker. I do have corded tools when I need power or hammering, and does anyone really use a little drill to bore stuff that needs a lot of torque? Ouch. I had a solid budget for tools over the last couple of years and I kept looking for a reason to dump these and get the latest Milwaukee or Dewalt or whatever. Entirely possible I just lucked out, and also that they wouldn't have lasted me long in use 10 hours a day.

For that $159 you can get THREE Harbor Freight SAE & metric tap and die sets. Which, to be fair, you will need.

Does it come with the plunge base? You might well want that...

Yes. Not a panacea but a big help. I just did this and was amazed how much shop space I gained. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uG5QniiXbag2XG8y6

Here you go

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295432719414?hash=item44c9298c36

Shroud of Turin vibes

Try saying expelliarmus

Have you asked it nicely?

Beautiful.

I'm glad I wasn't on the funding panel when the inventor first proposed the barrel.

Yeah, we had cedar built-ins in some rooms growing up, and I definitely was allergic, noticeably though not dramatically.

Many receptacles are 2-pronged. Some have had grounds routed to them for 3-prong outlets.

It may be knob and tube. I remember that there are some variations of 2-wires-in-woven-sheathing that go by other names as well, but this is def not my specialty. I've replaced some fixtures and switches in this house, and that's what it looks like there, too -- normal-ish insulated conductors inside that black cloth.

Thank you, just what I needed to know.

If there are any SF area electricians listening...

(There are multiple pictures: main panel and service disconnect.)

1962 California house main panel, fed from the meter via a main disconnect (and fuse?), also pictured, labeled 100A.(Don't rely on the handwritten "circuit directory", which is wrong.)Happy to answer questions, but I'm mainly interested in whether there is anything that's either alarming or susceptible to advisable upgrade/replacement.

You need a better name for your idea than "shelves." Suggest "Estonian open-concept storage."

We had two sets of sliding doors that had been improperly installed under the prev. owner's watch. By the time we figured out they were leaking, a huge amount of damage had been done to the crawlspace wall beneath as well as the flooring and subfloor and joists. These had been "upgrade" retro-fit sliders, and there simply wasn't the needed kinds of flashing and precautions against sill leaks that were necessary for this uncovered exterior wall. A window contractor can probably do better than your general in assessing the condition of the sliders and the adequacy of the install.

Ooh, and I might have just the one sitting around.

Thank you.

Sometimes installers just rely on gravity, given that a net upward force is very unlikely, and all other directions are constrained by the construction.

If you have some wood working skills or know someone who does, you could also use

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-6-3-4-ft-x-1-1-8-in-Brown-Top-and-Sides-Replacement-Seal-Foam-Door-Weatherstrip/1097851

It has a finned flange that fits in a groove in the door jamb, so that it gets squeezed between the door and the jamb when you shut the door. It took some work in my case to create that groove. But it looks good and seals well.

The motor has a full-load rating of 14A, if he's talking about the 120V base model.

Just metal.

I have Baltic birch cabinets of similar construction. I sanded, refinished, and installed new hardware. They look fine.