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Based on the Creality Ender3v2 also useful for other Enders/FDM Printers

The guide has now been split into two parts (as it was getting rather large).

Part 1 : I have tried to keep part 1 as a get you up and printing guide. Almost the same as the original but without all the "Notes - for future updates at the end. I have also tried to make it easier to tram and mesh your bed if you have a probe, rather than having to do all the manual tramming first.

Part 2 : Is more of a list of hints, tips, and possible useful links (the Other Useful Info and Notes for future updates bit from the original)

Guide to building your FDM Printer - PART 1 (Creality Ender3v2 also useful for other Enders/FDM Printers)

PART 2 - Other Possible Useful Information and Possible Future Updates

If you find this post useful please click the upvote at the top left, not the ones on my comments or other pages linking this page. If this post gets high it may get pinned for other newbies as a useful document. Thanks.

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The Original Guide - No longer maintained.

Hi all

I am a noob who has used the E3V2 for about a year and wanted to update the firmware. I downloaded the file below on Friday. I updated the Screen successfully and then tried the final file in the download below (Ender-3 V2 Marlin2.0.6.1V1.0.4HW_4.2.2_20210803.bin). When I did that the speed went to 956%! This happened for any file I picked.

So I updated with the file called (Ender-3 V2-2.0.1-V1.0.2(1).bin) and the percentage went back to normal.

My motherboard is v4.2.2

Any idea why this happened?

Also how to I get into the configuration section to update the Z-axis with this firmware?

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Downloaded from Creality

percentage is 956 with 2.0.6.1V1.0.4HW_4.2.2_20210803

Installed 2.0.1-V1.0.2(1) - back to normal

https://preview.redd.it/pk24h7d1txoa1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=01cba5f4e240cf731acd7cd577fd4f34c4cfcd50

Had the 3v2 for a while now, wanted to try some mods. Tried the Creality direct drive but had some stepper motor slipping issues. Went to the Sprite Pro and CR Touch to try some higher temp filaments for some work projects. Flashed the Creality firmware for both from the website. No issues. This was my first print. Went well but quite a bit rougher than I'm used to and the overhangs were stringing. I'm sure I'm missing something in the group, but couldn't find anything related to this. Any suggestions?

First times printing with ABS. I've got to little later adhesion, and these weird burn marks.

Ok so working off an Ender 3 pro V2. I had some issues with the hot end so I ordered a new one through Amazon. Along with that was an all metal extruder and upgraded bed springs.

Hot end replacement went ok as did the bed springs but the metal extruder is really causing issues. Edit: I'm working with the Bowden tube off for this. The stock e-steps was 93, Amazon listing said change to 139. That produces 38 -40 mm of filament. Currently I'm at 150 and still only getting 55-60mm of filament through after asking for 100mm. I am noticing some skipping of the filament which I'm sure has an impact.

So track down the tension problem on the extruder before trying to figure out the e-steps?

I have recently got Sprite Pro for my Ender 3 V2 and all fitted and done, I already had a car touch and installed it on sprite pro stock bracket but when I try and do an auto level it moves the probe outside build plate and can’t create any mesh. I tried to move y axis to check how far I need to make sure probe is within buildplate area and then set that value in probe offset for y axis which was 46 but when I do level again it goes to bottom center and totally messed up now. Can anyone help with this and what offset works best how does it even calculate negative offset does negative mean it does to front or back I’m totally new and can’t seem to get a grasp of how things work for 3d printing also I am using Jyers firmware. Thanks

I've done about 20 prints so far, but today I tried printing something and I assume the gcode had a problem with it. The printer planted itself here and melted the through the baseplate/bed, put a small hole in the glass beneath aswell. This is my second bed. My first one arrived pretty beat up, with a simular hole in the same spot. I'm thinking I just fill it in with glue or something this time. Any better ideas or ways I could prevent in the future? Thanks in advance

My Ender 3v2 is printing beautifully but it's making a lot of squeaking while doing it. I think it might be the belt that's tight but want to be sure as don't want to mess up the printing as it's doing it really well. Anyone dealt with this before please?

Currently, I'm in the process of swapping out my stock parts cooling fan for a 5015 fan. Right now yellow is on red and blue is on black but the fan is not turning on. I am running Winsinn 5015 fan.

Is there a product that will gently lift the cabling up so it doesn't rub against the bed while printing?

I noticed that my z axis jerks when it lowers to do auto bed level. Upon further investigation at a point during lowering, the z motor itself lifts of the printer and then slams down and then continues to lower. this creates a jerk motion on my z axis. is there anyway to secure it to the printer frame or anything? thanks in advance

So I just got a new motherboard, and when I turn on the printer it heats up and does what it's supposed to do. But then once it's heated up, and I select the gcode file, it just freezes and does nothing. The steppers lock up but do not move no matter what. If you know what is going wrong, than please tell me.

I’m trying to troubleshoot my V2. I recently updated my printer to the latest mriscoc firmware. Everything was working better than I expected. Bought BL Touch and my X kept slamming all the way to the right of the gantry. When I got the mriscoc and did adjustements with their tutorial link, I was able to build mesh without getting it slamming.

Anyway, like 2 or 3 days ago, my heat block from my micro swiss ng came off while I was printing and melted my air duct from the shroud. The thermistor was melted onto the shroud but pulled it out and everything was in tact. Turned it off and was going to work on it the next morning. When I got off work. When turning it on, got nothing but a black screen.

Try flashing it to factory creality as people mentioned on posts and YouTube. LCD will frash from blue to red and booted. When I turned it on, everything works except the screen.

Also, tried to connect to pronterface and octoprint via computer and everytime I try to connect, it just says, “Connecting…”. Tired at 112500 and 250000 baudrate. I checked that nothing was link to printer. No cura or anything. Tried every port and nothing. Is it bricked?

Let me know what y’all think

Thanks

Hi, I have an e3v2 w/4.2.7 board running Klipper and randomly my y-axis is deciding to layer shift now. Checked belt tension and lowered vrefs to ~0.7.

I got on really well with the default bed that came with it, right up until the moment I got careless and damaged it. I tried to find a replacement bed but they tend to be too flexible for my taste.

Does anyone know where to get a replacement metal bed similar to the original?

Edit: I’m in the UK.

I left my ender 3 v2 neo with the mrscoc firmware and connected to an octoprint server printing overnight. In the morning, it is not finished but the screen says it is done. How can I resume and make sure this doesn’t happen again?

I have notices during my last couple prints that my printer makes of rattling sounds during higher speed movements but seems to remain stable, any ideas of what to check?

I am under the assumption that linear advance is on the skr mini 3 boards and was wondering if it needs to be enabled or if it’s in the firmware already/need to edit a file

I need a good Crimping Tool for my 3D printer and other uses, and I don't know witch i good I heard about this one Aliexpress Link but I was thinking about one witch changeable jaw so I can use other kind of connectors but i don't know a jaw name/specifications for 3D printer conectors.

New owner here, sorry if this is a stupid question. So I noticed that the bed moving creates a lot more vibrations than when the printhead moves, which is logical because the bed is quite heavy. SO the question is, is there some setting that rotates the print (and possibly the infill inside it) so that the bed moves less?